Art Canvas Substitute

I have had a few conversations and questions about this substrate I use for about anything I would want to use a canvas for. It's cheap, versatile and lightweight.

I'm going to do a Helen Keller description of this board so you know what to look for if you are interested.

I don't have a brand name, but they call it 'rigid insulate board'. It comes in 4x8 sheets just like drywall. It is 1/2 inch thick. There is a tyvak type paper on both sides with a expanding type foam inside, not styrofoam. You can cut it with a blade knife and snap it just like drywall. One sheet is around $12.00, but will yield boards in any size you would want. I have substrates cut posterboard size down to 2x2inch and my favorite size is 36"x16" for art worthy of hanging over the fireplace. 8x8 works best for shipping (1 oz) in padded envies. It can be cut on the curve too.
First thing you want to do is cover it so you don't ding corners and such. I bought a tablet of gesso canvas paper. I used white school glue, cut box corners and finished both sides. Another way when I know I will end up with layers of mixed medium, I just use gel medium and glue pages of an old book and completely cover it. I do all this covering and mess in one day so that I can store them for later use.
If you have a lumber place that has this stuff, just have them snap cut the big sheet down to 3 pieces so they will fit in the back seat of your car. The coolest feature is that it is so lightweight for shipping or hanging....and being only 1/2 inch thick it can easily be framed.

Altered Canvas Niche

The girls in my 'Latest Trends in Mixed Media Art' group started a discussion about niches in art canvases. I did one a while back and want to share what I did here on my blog as well. Keep in mind, this one is 2x2" mini, but the technique could be used on any size you choose.


I will try to explain....

First I take the near completed canvas and decide where I want the niche.
I make an x cut in the canvas and fold the opening back, then
cut more snips in the four flaps to make a circle opening....fray the
thread of the canvas a bit.

Next I made 5 or 6 squares of waterpaper just an inch larger than the
hole opening. The first square I ripped
a hole in the center matching the size of the hole in the canvas. The
next 4or5 pieces, I graduated the ripped holes just fractions smaller
that the first. I used an embossing pen and embossed the ripped edges
of the holes, distress inked too.

Next I stacked them one on top using glue dots(for dimension)
on the four corners of the squares, smallest under the next smallest
and then to the back of the canvas, giving it a
tunnel effect.

Then I backed the hole with a background paper and
added my seed. The back of the canvas is finshed off with cardstock
or chipboard.
Hope that made sense...

The ATC " How-To "

Artist Trading Cards are a quick and fun way to do small art pieces that are cheap and less time-consuming, thus can be traded or given away. They say you should never sell them or they just wouldn't be ATC's and I get that....so to be politically correct when taking them to eBay to sell the name gets changed to ACEO's. That stands for Art Card Editions and Originals. They are also 2.5 x 3.5 inches, but since they aren't trading cards, they can be sold...does that make since?? Gotta love how women solve problems, huh!?!
Below are some simple instructions on how to do what I call cut&paste cards like the ones in my pictures at the bottom of my blog page. They are great for using neat ephemera, old vintage photos and using distressing inks and embossing powders!

The ATC " How-To "
1. Cut a piece of thick cardstock, chipboard, or watercolor paper to 2.5" x 3.5". This is the standard size for trading cards, and the thicker material will give you a sturdier base.
2. Choose your theme. What you would like for a focal point. This could be a picture or phrase … whatever catches your fancy.
3. Decide what sort of background you'd like to create. Go through your folder of paper scraps for inspiration, or consider paints, crayons, fabric or inks!
4. Next... cut, tear or outline cut the items that go on top of the background. Choose an adhesive that you use the same throughout your project. Using the same glue on both sides of media, as in decoupage, will reduce the frequency of wrinkling. Allow thorough drying between layers. You'll thank me later.
5. You'll know when your ATC is finished, much the same way you know when to stop with a scrapbook layout. Sign it, Date it and Name it! When complete, your ATC can be traded, saved or even incorporated into a tag, card or layout. Or don't forget...call it an ACEO and sell it!